Vijayawada and Amaravati: Temples, Caves and the Krishna

The guardian goddess of Vijayawada sits on Indrakeeladri hill above the Krishna. Your car goes up the ghat road, and from the top you look down on the river and the barrage. Free darshan, with Rs 100 and Rs 300 quick darshan tickets at the counter if the queue is long. Traditional dress, phones and footwear deposited before the queue.

A tourism boat crosses the Krishna to Bhavani Island in a few minutes. Walk the island, sit by the water and come back by boat before dusk. Boat tickets (Approx Rs 120 for adults) are included. Boats can stop when the river is high after heavy rain.

The long barrage across the Krishna, with Indrakeeladri hill rising at one end. Your driver stops where it is safe so you can watch the sunset over the water. December sunsets here are around 5:40 PM.

A four storey temple cut into a sandstone hill about 1,400 years ago, with a huge reclining Vishnu on the upper floor. Entry ticket included. Some steps and uneven floors.

A cave shrine part way up Mangalagiri hill, reached by steps or the ghat road. Devotees offer panakam (jaggery water) poured into the open mouth of the god. The hill temple is open only in the morning and early afternoon (Approx 7 AM to 3 PM), so we go before lunch. Mangalagiri is also famous for its cotton handloom sarees.

A small ASI museum of carved limestone panels, Buddha figures and a model of the stupa as it once stood. Closed on Fridays: if Day 2 is a Friday, we swap Day 2 and Day 3. Entry included.

The mound and ring of the great Buddhist stupa that stood here for over a thousand years, right next to the museum. Very little shade, carry water and a cap.

An old Shiva temple on the Krishna bank, one of the Pancharama shrines of Andhra, with a very tall lingam. Free darshan. Traditional dress.

A giant seated Buddha on a lotus base by the river, lovely in the late afternoon light. Your driver waits at the gate.

A 14th century hill fort with gates, a ruined palace and wide views over the plains. The road climbs most of the way, then you walk. Entry ticket included. Carry water, there is little shade.

Kondapalli toys are carved from a soft, light local wood called tella poniki and painted by hand. Watch a family at work and buy straight from them. Prices start small, so bring cash.

A state museum in an old British era building on MG Road, with sculpture, coins and weapons from the Krishna region. Closed on Fridays: on a Friday we give you a slower morning or a riverside drive instead.