Deccan Sultanate Trail: Bidar, Kalaburagi and Vijayapura

A 15th century college built by the Bahmani minister Mahmud Gawan. One tall minaret still shows its green and yellow tiles. It sits in the old city, on the way to the fort.

A huge red stone fort of the Bahmani kings, with gateways, the Rangin Mahal palace with its inlaid woodwork and tile work, and the Solah Khamba mosque. Wear good shoes, the site is big and uneven. Most guides say it shuts at about 5 PM.

A row of great domed tombs of the Bahmani sultans, a short drive east of the city. Look inside the tomb of Ahmad Shah for its painted ceiling. Lovely in the last light before sunset.

Bidriware is black metal inlaid with fine silver, made in Bidar for about 600 years. Watch an artisan family at work in the old city lanes and buy straight from them if you like. Pieces are priced by size and silver.

The first Bahmani capital. Inside the walls is the Jama Masjid, with a roof of many small domes and no open courtyard, which is rare in India. It is still used for prayer, so dress modestly and be quiet.

The city's most loved temple, built around the samadhi of the 18th century saint Sharana Basaveshwara, beside a large tank. Shoes off at the gate.

The shrine of the Sufi saint Khwaja Bande Nawaz, who came to Kalaburagi in about 1400. People of all faiths visit. Cover your head and shoulders, and leave shoes at the stand.

The tomb of Ibrahim Adil Shah II and his queen, with a mosque facing it across a garden. Its fine stone carving and slim minarets are said to have inspired the Taj Mahal. Best in the late afternoon light.

The unfinished tomb of Ali Adil Shah II. Only the great arches were built, and they look striking at dusk. Free to walk around.

The tomb of Muhammad Adil Shah, with one of the largest domes in the world. Climb the corner stairs to the whispering gallery, where a whisper carries across the dome. The small museum at the gate is worth a look. Go early, it gets loud with school groups.

A large Adil Shahi mosque from the 16th century, still in use. Visitors are not allowed in during prayer times, so we time it around them. Dress modestly.

One of the biggest medieval cannons in the world, on a bastion of the city wall. Its mouth is shaped like a lion swallowing an elephant.

The ruined palace of the Adil Shahis, with a very wide central arch. A short walk in a small garden.

A tall round watchtower with steps winding up the outside and old cannons on top. Climb up for a view over the city and the dome of Gol Gumbaz at sunset.