Srikakulam Temples and Kalinga Coast

Brick stupas and the ruins of a big monastery on a hilltop above the Vamsadhara river, used from about the 2nd to the 12th century. There is a climb up steps to the top, and the view of the river is the reward. Little shade, so carry water and a cap.

A quiet beach where the Vamsadhara river flows into the Bay of Bengal, next to a 31 m red and white lighthouse. This was once a busy Kalinga port. The lighthouse lets visitors up on some afternoons with a small ticket, paid there. The sea here has strong currents, so paddle only, do not swim.

One of the very few temples in India to Vishnu as Kurma, the tortoise. Look for the two flag posts, one east and one west, the old carved pillars and the tortoise park behind the temple, home to a few hundred star tortoises. Evening is a lovely time, with lamps lit for the evening puja. General darshan is free.

An old Kalinga style temple to Surya, with the Sun god on a chariot of seven horses carved from one black granite stone. General darshan is free, and a special darshan ticket is sold at the counter. Sundays and festival days are very crowded, so expect a longer queue. Leave footwear in the car.

Three stone Shiva temples, Madhukeswara, Someswara and Bhimeswara, built between about the 8th and 11th centuries when this village was Kalinganagari, capital of the Eastern Gangas. The carvings on the outer walls are the highlight. The temples close for a break in the afternoon, so we come in the morning.